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My first day in London!  The irony of the title to this entry is that I have found very few British people here.  It appears to be a complete melting pot.  There are a lot of people from India, lots of Muslim people from the Middle East, lots of people from Asia, and even people from Russia and Ukraine.   Of course, I’ve only been here one day (and in tourist areas), but so far only about 20% of the people I’ve met actually have British accents.

I arrived at 7am this morning.  It took me about an hour to get through customs.  While customs in Ukraine is terrifying yet quick, UK customs were easy but took FOREVER.  The line was just really, REALLY long.  Upon exiting the airport I took the tube to my hotel.

A few words of explanation here:  I LOVE THE TUBE.  If there is any one takeaway from trip so far, it’s how much I LOVE the subway system here.  You can get anywhere so easily…and it’s so easy to use.  I went through Hounslow and it made me laugh because I finally get a bunch of jokes from a play  starred in like 15 years ago (a running punch line about trying to find an office building…but it was <gasp> in Hounslow! <Insert laughs here> I was laughing all the way because now I’ve seen Hounslow. LOL I can’t think of any reason to go there, and that’s sort of the point.

I’m also seeing references from My Fair Lady everywhere I look “I want to own a shop on Covenant Gardens, rather than selling up and down Tottenham Court Road (ironically my hotel is right off of Tottenham Court Road).

Once I got to my room, I had been awake for 48 hours, and just completely collapsed.  I woke up around 7pm here (11am in California) showered, and headed out to see the Thames.  Attached are picks of the London Eye, and Big Ben and Parliament (look kids!  Big Ben, Parliament! – So people will get it).  I toured there until it got dark and I knew I would see more when I came back during the day.  I had a late dinner at a pub I found called “Garfunkel’s.”  Yes, I chose it for its name.  I will probably come back there in April, if I will.  While eating my chicken skewers,  I thought 59 times that I was feelin’ groovy.

Now I am back in my room and trying to get to bed so tomorrow is more productive.   I only have 3 full days here, so it should be action packed.  Have I mentioned that I LOVE THE TUBE?!?!

Jeff:  Aug 12^th, 2017.

Tommorow I’m off to London for close to a week, then Paris for just a couple of days, and then back into Ukraine for 3 weeks!  I’m all packed and a little restless…some things I will be doing include seeing Andrew Scott as Hamlet, visiting 221B Baker Street, seeing the Eiffel Tower, and spending Ukrainian Independence Day in Lviv (a wonderful artsy town near the border of Poland).  …oh, and I will also be meeting up with friends all along the way!

I’ll keep this updated as often as I can with pictures and stories!!!  So long United States!

Jeff:  August 10th, 2017

I thought at the time this happened that I would keep this entry private..but based on my feelings currently, and events I would have never dreamed, I felt I should share.  I wrote this in my apartment immediately after attending church in Odessa the first time last August.  There are probably references that people won’t understand…but I wanted to be true to the moment.  

“I didn’t think this warranted an entry in my public blog, but I wanted to tell you of my experience attending church today in Odessa.

So it’s come to this:  My last night in Ukraine.  I spent the day just wandering the streets, going to the Potemkin Stairs one last time, and taking it all in.  I stopped in my favorite restaurant for a great lunch, and then walked the park.  Just one last relaxing day of refection.  After spending 4 days in Kiev, I’ve come to realize that for me, Ukraine is specifically Odessa.  I had not known any other place in Ukraine until this trip.  To be honest, I think I sort of pulled a “I love the United States, because I’ve been to Portland.  The entire US must be just like Portland.”  I also noted my old apartment is getting just a bit of a facelift.

When nighttime came, it was time to have some fun.  I walked up and down Deribasivskaya Street, listening to the street performers and watching the children going on horse rides.  I then walked down Primorsky Blvd, which is a neat street that is also one long park as well.  At night, they have all the trees decorated with lights.  At the center of this street/park are the Potemkin Stairs, with all kinds of street vendors and musicians.  It’s pretty amazing how simple life is for the people that live here.  Children running around the park, happy for an ice cream cone…lovers walking down the street holding hands, just enjoying the evening.  This is an event.  This is nighttime in Odessa.  Kids aren’t crying out to go to a fancy amusement park, or to get the newest XBox games…just to enjoy the sites and sounds of Deribasivskaya Street is enough.

The last time I left Ukraine, I distinctly remember not bothering to exchange my money.  This was business as usual, after all.  I paid the taxi driver my fair at the airport, looked in my wallet and thought “I’ll be back in a couple of months.  I will need cab fair and such when I get back.”  Life throws unexpected changes at you.  It’s been 9 years and 11 months since that day.  When I first arrived, I paid the taxi with money that had been sitting in my wallet almost a decade.  This time, I’m still not exchanging my money.  But I’m promising myself it won’t be a decade before I return here.  No matter what life throws at me.

I’m off to Vienna, Austria today.  I’m leaving a great love of mine behind.  But it’s bittersweet, because I know I will be back someday.  And I know my friends and family truly make up my home…and that I missed there.  So long for now, Odessa. XOXO

Jeff:  August 28th, 2016

Yesterday was all about relaxing and picking up some souvenirs.  Street vendors here are always the best place for picking up inexpensive trinkets.  But apparently, they are all out of nesting dolls…which doesn’t quite seem possible.  However, I did pick up a bunch of other cultural pieces, as you’ll see in the pictures below.  I also got to watch some men in an epic chess battle in the park.

Once the souvenirs were done, it was time to hit the cafes.  Cafes in Odessa are mostly outdoors on the side walk.  Just a word of caution:  In Ukraine, going out to a restaurant is an event, so be prepared to treat it like one.  Unlike in the US, your hostess will not bring you your check for almost an hour after you’re done eating.  People usually have their meal and then sit and relax for almost an hour before leaving.  While taking in the ambiance of the street, I saw a little girl riding a pony.  It reminded me of my first night here, when a woman with a pony walked by me and said “taxi?”  And we both laughed.  I think it’s little things like that which I will miss the most.

Today is my last full day here, and I plan to film a lot of video for upcoming film projects I have in mind.  Other than that, I will find a great cafe and take it all in…one last time.  It’s been so wonderful, but I can’t wait to be home again (a home which is apparently all gift wrapped courtesy of my friend Cynthia).

Jeff:  Aug 28th, 2016

This entry is more of a rant than a travelogue, just fair warning.

So, I literally shut my laptop from my last blog, when I decided it was time to check in for my flight at the Kiev airport.  I went to the check in area, and got in one of the 20 or so lines available.  It was 90 minutes until departure, so things were looking good.  However, my line was not moving.  At all.  All other lines were moving.  One hour till departure now.  I’m closer to the front.  A guy is arguing with the check in person about his bags.  I have now counted the lines on either side of me had cycled through 4 times apiece.  50 minutes til departure:  I finally make it to the counter.  “Odessa?  That is domestic.  This is international only.  Domestic downstairs.”  Keep in mind there are absolutely no signs (in English OR Russian) explaining this.  I guess people are just supposed to know.

Downstairs:  45 minutes until flight departure.  There are no check in counters anyplace to be seen.  I go to security (leading to the gates).  “Bitte?  Ja prousta bitte?”  I reply “Where do I go to get a ticket?” hoping to get extra help for being a stupid American.  “Left.  Go left.”

Left:  40 minutes until departure.  I find an information booth.  The lady there stares open eyed when I tell her the flight I’m on.  She leads me through an unlabelled doorway, where there is….tada!  One check in counter!  Of course, the one lady in front of me is taking forever and arguing with the lady behind the counter.  However, I finally get my ticket and the lady at the counter says “Hurry, they are boarding.”  Duh.

Once on the plane, there is someone sitting in my seat.  It’s a pretty normal looking guy in his early 20’s.  I say in Russian “I think you’re sitting in my seat.”  He just stares at me.  I show him my ticket.    I repeat it in English.  He just stares at me.  So, I take the middle seat, which is vacant, and hope for the best (it is only a 35 minute flight). Throughout the flight, whenever I try to look out the window, this guy turns his head and stairs directly in my face.  Every time.  What a freak job.  I seriously almost slapped him.  I counted eight times it happened.  Even landing, I thought “Last call for creepy dude to turn and stare at my face!  Done!  Eight times!”  And just when you think this story is over, when we all stood up to get off the plane, he rested his chin on my shoulder to look into the isle!  I kid you not.  I will use this experience to make a character one day.

I’ve been to Odessa before, even previously this week, so I understand economics a bit.  A taxi from the airport a week ago cost around $9.  To the airport?  $8.  So, I exit the airport, and a guy asks if I want a taxi, and I ask him how much, and he says $70.  HA!  No.  So there is a stand outside…I go to them.  They say $50.  Right.  And then they honestly try to tell me that is a fair price, which I argue back (in Russian) that I know that it’s not, etc.  Apparently, every single taxi driver at the airport works for this crooked outfit.  So, I ended up paying $45 for a freakin’ taxi.  That’s like 7 meals at a restaurant here.

Despite the adventures, once I actually got into town everything was great.  I ate at Mick’s (slowly becoming one of my favorite hang outs) and got to see both the sunset and the sunrise.  Life is now good here in Odessa.

Jeff:  Aug 27th, 2016

I’m currently sitting in the Kiev airport, reflecting on the last couple of days.  I won’t sugar coat it:  I am happy to be leaving Kiev.  But I am super glad I came here and spent the time I did.  Maidan being especially powerful.  But it will be great to get back to my love:  Odessa.
First off, Independence Day.  This was not what I expected AT ALL.  It was pretty crowded, but the parade was 100% military.  Tanks and rocket carriers, one after the other.  I tried to focus on the people instead of the parade itself.  One image struck me in particular:  Three little girls filming the parade from their parents’ shoulders.  I didn’t take a lot of pictures at the parade, because there were people with cameras everywhere, and I knew people would be able to find better pics on google within a day.

Even though the parade was highly military driven, the after parade festivities were awesome.  There was dancing in the street, with traditional music and dress.  They roped off an entire block for a motorcycle stunt team to perform, and there were vendors with tables selling all sorts of art.  There was also this stage set up where a bunch of teenage kids sat awkwardly while a giant movie of watches played behind them…I have no idea what that was about.  But I took a video and will upload it to youtube.

The day after the parade, Tom and I went out to McFoxy’s for filming of Rabbit Ears.  McFoxy is a total ripoff of McDonalds.  Everything looks like McDonalds.  It’s hilarious.  An even further hilarity is that it is located directly next door to McDonalds!  So on my show Rabbit Ears, we have made “McFoxy’s” our fictitious hang out joint.  So now, we actually got to film some scenes there!

I won’t bore you with the minor details of film making, but filming at McFoxy’s was a nightmare from a work perspective.  Nothing matched the pictures…I had to think on the fly for a lot of scenes, and by the end of the day I think they wanted to call the police to get us to leave.  ))  In the end, though, I think the footage will work and be a unique part of the show that we’ll never forget.  After filming, Tom left on a train to his next destination….so I am flying solo (literally and figuratively).

So that’s Kiev!  I will be flying to Odessa within the hour!  I don’t expect my other blogs will be event driven, as much as just reflections and opinions.  But I look forward to touching base with you all from Odessa!
Jeff:  August 26th, 2016

Well, this is my 2nd day in Kiev.  I don’t count the first day much, as I basically sat around with a fever waiting for my apartment to be opened up for me.  Although we did walk down to Maidan (Independence Square) for a bit while waiting.

Before getting into the positives (I want to end on a happy note), let me tell you a little about Kiev, as if it were a soup.  Relating Ukraine to California, if Odessa is Santa Cruz or Monterey, Kiev is downtown LA, if downtown LA were 10x the size it currently is.  Not Pasadena.  Not Anaheim.  I am truly talking downtown and downtown only.  Add to that the street traffic of San Francisco, and the dirt and ugliness of New York City, and that recipe will give you Kiev.  I’m determined to make the best of my time here, because there is no way I will ever, EVER be back in this city.

So…Maidan.  This was the sight of the Maidan protests in Jan/Feb of 2014, that eventually led to the overthrow of the pro-Russian government.  It was in the news.  I’m guessing you’ve heard about it.  I was amazed at how small it was.  After seeing the news footage of 40,000 people here…I just couldn’t believe how small it was.  They were setting up for the Independence Day parades and celebrations, so it was kind of neat to see the preparations.  I also went and saw the memorial for those who gave their lives in the protest.  That hit me quite hard.  But the Maidan Square was very neat to see in person.

Of course, the best part about visiting the square was this funny guy wearing a panda costume.  All he wanted from us was one US dollar, because he had never had one before.  Then he proceeded to insist on us taking pictures with him, while directing us on what to do (“Now, pull my ear….PULL MY EAR!”)  I later nicknamed him “Maidan Panda.”  What a strange and jovial guy.

Today we spent pretty much the whole day at the Ukrainian Museum for WWII.  It was pretty amazing.  They wouldn’t let me take any photos inside the museum, but I took a lot outside (including one of me sitting in a Soviet fighter).  It was fascinating to read about history from a completely different perspective.  One word of warning:  Ukrainians do not shelter their history.  If you go to this museum, you should probably not bring children.  More Ukrainians died in WWII than any other Allied country, and they are very visually open about it.  I did get a neat historical book on the museum before leaving, however.

Tomorrow is the big Independence Day celebration at Maidan.  There is news that it will be heavily militaristic, which is a bummer for me (I was hoping for more of a cultural parade), but hopefully I return with great pics and stories.

Jeff:  Aug 23rd, 2016

I’m a day late with this blog, so please bare with me!  Yesterday was Tom and I’s last day in Odessa.  We flew to Kiev this morning. Although I am returning to Odessa on Friday, Tom is traveling to Kamyanets-Podlisky to see a medieval castle.  I’m so jealous!

Our last day in Odessa was packed with events.  We started off the morning at a monument dedicated to Mel Brooks called “The 12th Chair.”  Yes, I typed that correctly.  A monument to Mel Brooks.  He directed a film called “The Twelve Chairs,’ which took place in Ukraine.  It’s such a popular monument, we got up at 7am so that we wouldn’t have to wait in the hour or so line that develops throughout the day.

Then we went to church, which was an exciting experience (hearing church service in Russian-pretty cool!)

After church, we went to the beach on The Black Sea, and Tom agreed to go with me to see the Nemo Dolphin show at the Dolphinarium.  Super fun day!  It is so great to sit out and watch the waves of the sea hit the shore.

Once back in town, I suggested we go to a pizza place.  “I want to see what Ukrainian pizza would be like.”  Turns out, it’s sort of like Sbarro in mall food courts…which is so Ukrainian:  Good, but totally bland. The pizza was about $2 total, and I got a fruity drink again!

Once back from dinner, I started to feel totally sick, and was up all night with a fever and other details nobody wants to know.  That’s why I’m a day late, but I’ll try to catch up!

We are now in Kiev, and I feel like that’s a topic for an entirely different blog….

Jeff:  Auguest 22nd, 2016.

Another day in paradise (I didn’t count on quoting Phil Collins, but who really does?)  Tom and I went out to the seaport and saw the Black Sea close up.  We also saw several cruise ships docking and disembarking.  The huge difference between now and ten years ago, was that all of these ships were local tourist excursions.  When I was here 10 years ago, there were so many large cruise ships from Greece and Italy coming in and out every day.  It’s obvious that Ukraine is no longer on their destination itineraries.  However, we had a great time down at the port.

We also visited the Odessa Regional History Museum, which was absolutely spectacular.  If you’re ever in Odessa, you will have to go there!  However, we did need a GPS to find it!  I wish I could share all the amazing exhibits we saw, but within 30 seconds of entering, we were swarmed by women in their 50’s yelling “Nyet!  Photograph, nyet!”  And then (I kid you not), they seemed to follow us around the building the whole time, just to make sure we didn’t take any photos while they were not looking.  I don’t know why they didn’t want us to photograph anything (ahem, free advertising!), but what do I know?  I am just a silly American.

We ate dinner at my favorite restaurant (which took me a couple of days to find because it has moved).  I finally, after 10 years, had pampushki properly made (ie:  not by me) and I was so excited I took a picture of it (silly American).  And, thus proving that Jeff is still Jeff in any culture, I ordered a fruity punch drink that came with a pink straw.

We also toured the Odessa Palace which is actually an indoor mall inside one of the most beautiful buildings (including a glass ceiling)!  “And this is a shopping mall?  No…I mean, this building.  No.  This one that we’re in.”

I met a really nice woman at a booth at a street faire. She hand paints nesting dolls and sells them for a living. They are all spectacular. A very nice older lady who says “Odessa is wonderful. But rest of Ukraine? I like watching California on television.” I bought her most expensive doll. 500 UAH (about $20).

In between all of this, we filmed most of the footage for Rabbit Ears that was on the call sheet for Odessa (finishing up one last shot early tomorrow morning before people are out and about), and also a few more of my new series “Jeff walks down scary alleys.”

Tonight they are setting up for a giant concert/street faire…so I should have a ton of pictures and stories tomorrow!  Until then, I think I need another fruity drink and some pampushki, so I will talk with you all later!  Paradise is just that.  This is the greatest city on Earth.

Jeff:  Aug 20th, 2016